Paklenica National Park is the most visited climbing center in Croatia, also popular outside Croatia. The close proximity of seawater gives this climbing site a special charm, making Paklenica Riviera an ideal place to combine climbing and water sports.
The history of alpinism in Paklenica began way back in 1938 when Dragutin Brahm tried to climb Anića kuk. Unfortunately, he died trying. Two years later, Slavko Brezovečki and Marijan Dragman completed Brahm’ route. After that, Croatian climbers climbed all routes that are now established routes in Paklenica. They are routes such as Mosoraški, Velebitaški, Klin, Funkcija. Since 1970, Slovenian alpinists have visited Pakelnica National Park and have slowly taken the initiative in establishing new routes.
Dragutin BrahmAscent via Brid Klina in 1973.
Today, there are over 360 equipped and improved routes of various difficulty levels and lengths within Paklenica’s climbing sites, so each climber can find to their liking.
The main climbing season begins in spring and goes on until late autumn.
ADVICE FOR CLIMBERS
Although a helmet is unpopular among sport climbers, there is always a possibility of a head injury (loose rock, climbing multiple lengths…), so make sure you put your helmet on. A helmet is a required part of an alpinist’s equipment.
When purchasing or borrowing equipment, check for a safety standard sign guaranteeing the equipment has undergone the required tests. Be careful who you borrow your equipment from.
The safety hook or any other part of metal or plastic equipment that falls on a hard surface from a height should be considered unreliable and preferably discarded. It may sustain invisible cracks or breakages, which may cause metal or plastic to break.
Check your own and your partner’s knowledge of handling the equipment and techniques:
Belay partners have caused serious accidents by mishandling the securing device. Even the most experienced climbers have been known to secure themselves to the rope in a wrong way or fail to run the belt through the safety buckle. Check these things several times.
Communicate with your partner
The belay partner and the climber should always know what the other one has in mind. When the climber comes to the stand, it is of surmount importance that the belay partner know what the climber intends to do – whether he will tie himself, descend, abseil or keep on climbing.
Information on the climbing site
Inquire about the direction you are climbing, the length, difficulty level, the quality of spits and stand. Accidents have often happened because the rope was too short and the end of the rope would slip through the securing device or there was no stand on the top, or the stand was on old spits.
Regularly practice sport climbing in a gym with an artificial rock. This will enable you to gain enough energy and elasticity, but this can in no way be a substitution for climbing in nature on a rock, merely additional practice. Regularly take climbing or alpinist trips because only regular practice will provide you with the required experience, knowledge and confidence. If you have taken a longer break, and you plan to take a sport climbing trip, make sure you repeat the securing, buckling and stand-tying techniques. For an alpinist trip, refresh your knowledge of setting up inter-security, making anchors, and the abseiling technique.
Courtesy of www.gss.hr